Soundbars > Samsung HWF450 Soundbar and Samsung UN46F6300 TV Problem
tru33's Avatar tru33 02:00 AM 01-08-2014
Hello. Ive got a samsung HWF450 soundbar and Samsung UN46F6300 TV which I've attempted to hookup via HDMI ARC several times with no luck. The TV's HDMI 2 says (ARC) Yet I get no sound or picture. The TV says no signal. The only way Ive been able to get picture and sound to work is by using regular HDMI and manually switching soundbar to HDMI. This is a pain because each time I turn tv back on soundbar defaults to D. IN so I must manually switch it using the soundbar remote. This results in extra remote because I cant find any codes to enter on time warner remote for the soundbar. Why is ARC not working? Why wont soundbar default to HDMI if that what I must use? Getting frustrated. Thanks.

DavidCaddock's Avatar DavidCaddock 02:20 PM 01-17-2014

I'm having the exact same issue with the exact same hardware setup.

 

Initially I had my STB plugged into HDMI1, and the soundbar connected to HDMI2 (ARC).  When initially turning on the soundbar, there would be sound, but it would quickly cut out.  It never came back.

 

I then plugged the HDMI from the STB into the soundbar HDMI IN port, and then from the soundbar HDMI OUT port into the TV.  Sound actually works, but the soundbar needs to be on HDMI. When turning on the TV, the soundbar is in D.IN source, not HDMI.

 

What should we be doing differently?


hail2030's Avatar hail2030 08:44 PM 01-17-2014
The Samsung sound bars default to D.IN. There's no "fix" for it. I have the HW-E450 and it defaults to D.IN. I had the F450 and it did the same thing. I returned it and got the F550 and it also defaults to D.IN.

My solution for it was to connect all HDMI sources to the TV and use and optical cable from the sound bar to the TV. I have both sound bars connected that way and I have no issues. The only time I change the source on the sound bar is when using Bluetooth. Going this route you will have to use 2 remotes because you're no longer using ARC, but I got a Harmony 600 remote, which resolves that problem.
vgoshika's Avatar vgoshika 10:07 PM 04-04-2014

Any luck on this issue? I am having same problem with HDMI cable.


indyfranks's Avatar indyfranks 12:12 PM 04-18-2014
I was having this same issue, but I was able to get it working after reading a suggestion in another thread.

I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

On the TV, your source should be HDMI 1, or wherever your video is coming from. As long as AnyNet is enabled on the TV, that should be all you need to do. Now when I turn on my TV, it initially defaults to D IN for several seconds, but then it syncs with AnyConnect and switches over to TV ARC on the soundbar and the audio cuts over from the TV to the soundbar. In addition, I can control the soundbar volume with the TV remote (DirecTV remote in my case).
tfly212's Avatar tfly212 02:37 PM 06-06-2014

Many thanks on this...I was going crazy trying to get this sorted out. Followed your instructions and it works perfectly now. Thanks again and have a great weekend. 


Nuzy's Avatar Nuzy 08:30 PM 01-04-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfranks View Post
I was having this same issue, but I was able to get it working after reading a suggestion in another thread.

I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

On the TV, your source should be HDMI 1, or wherever your video is coming from. As long as AnyNet is enabled on the TV, that should be all you need to do. Now when I turn on my TV, it initially defaults to D IN for several seconds, but then it syncs with AnyConnect and switches over to TV ARC on the soundbar and the audio cuts over from the TV to the soundbar. In addition, I can control the soundbar volume with the TV remote (DirecTV remote in my case).
I just want to say thank you for posting this. I have a UN55HU8550 and bought a H550 sound bar to go with it. I can't tell you how long I spent pulling the little hair I have left trying to figure out how to make these two things talk to each other and only use the DirecTV remote (on phone with Best Buy, searching internet, on phone with Samsung tech support). Shouldn't be so complicated to use HDMI for video and sound and only use one remote. If the sound bar would just stay on the input you select when you turn everything off (i.e. HDMI), this would not be an issue. In any case, appreciate you posting this Kind of stinks we have to wait 5-10 seconds for everything to link up, but it works and keeps the setup simple! Something that is critical for my wife and kids
RomanLeonMi 04:19 AM 01-08-2015
Hi at all,

I writing from Italy and I have the same problem, but I thinks that your connection is not correct:

indyfranks write:
I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

This solution allows to the soundbar and the tv with one remote and listen the audio form DirecTV automatically on TV.
But the real problem is that using this way your audio is not in dolby but in stereo.

If you connect DirecTV on the soundbar and switch to hdmi the quality audio is different becouse the audio i processed form the sounbar and not from the tv.

What do you thinks?
Nuzy's Avatar Nuzy 06:59 AM 01-08-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanLeonMi View Post
Hi at all,

I writing from Italy and I have the same problem, but I thinks that your connection is not correct:

indyfranks write:
I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

This solution allows to the soundbar and the tv with one remote and listen the audio form DirecTV automatically on TV.
But the real problem is that using this way your audio is not in dolby but in stereo.

If you connect DirecTV on the soundbar and switch to hdmi the quality audio is different becouse the audio i processed form the sounbar and not from the tv.

What do you thinks?
The problem with this is that the soundbar defaults to D.In when it turns on so you need to have the soundbar remote to switch the sound bar input from D.In to HMDI every time it is tuned on. Therefore, you need two remotes as the Directv remote does not have the ability to change the soundbar input. If the soundbar would stay on HDMI when it turns on, I would agree with your approach, but the soundbar doesn't do this. Not sure why Samsung designed it this way, but it is what it is. If people are ok with two remotes (or if you have a programmable remote), great, but if not, it won't work properly.
RomanLeonMi 02:23 AM 01-09-2015
Yes its true, with Harmony remote its too easy.
And solve the problem for d.in is easy because if you disable anynet+ and says to harmony remote that when turn on soundbar automatically switch on HDMI you solve the problem.

Mi question now is whats its better?

For example:

1. Bluray to imput HDMI of soundbar connect with HDMI in ARC port
2. Bluray to imput HDMI of soundbar connect with HDMI in normal HDMI port
3. Bluray to imput HDMI of TV and soundbar connect with HDMI in ARC port
4. Bluray to imput HDMI of TV and soundbar connect with HDMI in normal HDMI port

for each example its important to know if anynte+ its important that is turned off or on and know if the TV ARC connection its better.

Some one can help me?
dcmccubbin 01:41 PM 06-13-2015
So now it is June 2015 and Samsung still has not included instructions similar to indyfranks in the User Manual.
I have a Samsung UN55H6530 and HW-J450. I want to use just the COMCAST remote to adjust tv and soundbar - witch worked until I updated the soundbar software to ver 1006. Soundbar defaulted to D.In and had to be changed manually to HDMI.
A Chat session and email exchange with Samsung support said I would have to set the soundbar manually to HDMI.
I finally found this thread. Thanks for the right answer.
So, now I have the COMCAST X1 on HDMI into the tv HDMI 1. The TV HDMI 2 (ARC) runs to the Soundbar To TV (out). The Soundbar display shows TV ARC. Everything works via COMCAST remote.
FloridaRich 10:32 AM 11-30-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmccubbin View Post
So, now I have the COMCAST X1 on HDMI into the tv HDMI 1. The TV HDMI 2 (ARC) runs to the Soundbar To TV (out). The Soundbar display shows TV ARC. Everything works via COMCAST remote.
Nov. 30, 2015
That's the way I was connected (via ARC) and it worked but the volume (full 50) was not very loud for a crowd in the room. Plus sometimes you get no audio at turn-on (Remedy: Turn off and on TV again). So I disconnected the HDMI (ARC) cable and used the Optical Audio to the Sound Bar (D.IN). Much better volume (loud at 40 now). Auto Power ON works and the SoundBar turns off by itself in 25 minutes. But the only Volume Control I have is with the little SoundBar (HW-J450) remote. I want my Comcast Cable Box Universal Remote to control volume. Tried to program the AUX link (on the Comcast Silver Remote) to Samsung SoundBar using code 31949 or 31950 but this Comcast Remote won't take those codes. Even the Samsung TV (UN55J7000) Standard Remote has no control over volume. I must be missing something here.
FloridaRich...
Jordan Bryan 07:53 AM 04-08-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfranks View Post
I was having this same issue, but I was able to get it working after reading a suggestion in another thread.

I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

On the TV, your source should be HDMI 1, or wherever your video is coming from. As long as AnyNet is enabled on the TV, that should be all you need to do. Now when I turn on my TV, it initially defaults to D IN for several seconds, but then it syncs with AnyConnect and switches over to TV ARC on the soundbar and the audio cuts over from the TV to the soundbar. In addition, I can control the soundbar volume with the TV remote (DirecTV remote in my case).

Im having the same issues except mine are actually opposite i believe? my soundbar boots up in D.In ( Arc ) but then after a few moments switches to hdmi and i lose all sound and i have to go over and manually switch it back. I have a (Arc hdmi) slot on my tv as the last hdmi slot left so i wanted to use it. I have my soundbar hdmi IN (arc) going to the tv hdmi (arc) yet it keeps going back to plain HDMI. i dont know how to fix this im not good at sound stuff at all. Should i go from hdmi out to my arc slot or any tips?
Jordan Bryan 07:59 AM 04-08-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Bryan View Post
Im having the same issues except mine are actually opposite i believe? my soundbar boots up in D.In ( Arc ) but then after a few moments switches to hdmi and i lose all sound and i have to go over and manually switch it back. I have a (Arc hdmi) slot on my tv as the last hdmi slot left so i wanted to use it. I have my soundbar hdmi IN (arc) going to the tv hdmi (arc) yet it keeps going back to plain HDMI. i dont know how to fix this im not good at sound stuff at all. Should i go from hdmi out to my arc slot or any tips?
dunno how to edit my post but i wanted to make a correction. my soundbar is HDMI out arc to my tv hdmi arc. It sounds like alot of people want their sound going through hdmi mine auto goes to hdmi instead of staying on D.in. I dont know the difference in hdmi or arc or what they mean but i would love mine to stay put as well.
k_lewis's Avatar k_lewis 03:16 AM 07-16-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfranks View Post
I was having this same issue, but I was able to get it working after reading a suggestion in another thread.

I have my DirecTV receiver connected to HDMI 1 on the TV (UN60F6300 in my case).
I have my soundbar (HW-H450) connected on HDMI Out to to the TV on HDMI 2 (ARC).

On the TV, your source should be HDMI 1, or wherever your video is coming from. As long as AnyNet is enabled on the TV, that should be all you need to do. Now when I turn on my TV, it initially defaults to D IN for several seconds, but then it syncs with AnyConnect and switches over to TV ARC on the soundbar and the audio cuts over from the TV to the soundbar. In addition, I can control the soundbar volume with the TV remote (DirecTV remote in my case).
I have the Samsung HW-F551 soundbar with wireless sub, UN40F6300 TV, and a Roku 3. I too was pulling my hair out after updating the TV firmware. Before the firmware update on TV it all worked fine hooked up to TV HDMI1 (Roku HDMI to soundbar HDMI in, then soundbar HDMI out to HDMI1 input on TV- that is all). Thank God I found this thread.

After I updated the firmware on TV it totally blew up- the soundbar would magically switch from HDMI to "D In" and break everything. If I changed source back to HDMI the sound bar would forcibly change back to D IN and it would never stay on HDMI.

The TV never had its firmware updated since new in 2014. Before the firmware update, the soundbar would stay on HDMI and work like you'd expect. The new TV firmware must have some updated HDMI protocols which changes how everything works with AnyNet+

Thank you indyfrank for your instruction - five stars bud! this worked perfectly and I am back to using the single Samsung TV remote to control the TV + sound bar as if they were one single piece of equipment. You rock.
indyfranks's Avatar indyfranks 11:00 AM 07-16-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by k_lewis View Post
I have the Samsung HW-F551 soundbar with wireless sub, UN40F6300 TV, and a Roku 3. I too was pulling my hair out after updating the TV firmware. Before the firmware update on TV it all worked fine hooked up to TV HDMI1 (Roku HDMI to soundbar HDMI in, then soundbar HDMI out to HDMI1 input on TV- that is all). Thank God I found this thread.

After I updated the firmware on TV it totally blew up- the soundbar would magically switch from HDMI to "D In" and break everything. If I changed source back to HDMI the sound bar would forcibly change back to D IN and it would never stay on HDMI.

The TV never had its firmware updated since new in 2014. Before the firmware update, the soundbar would stay on HDMI and work like you'd expect. The new TV firmware must have some updated HDMI protocols which changes how everything works with AnyNet+

Thank you indyfrank for your instruction - five stars bud! this worked perfectly and I am back to using the single Samsung TV remote to control the TV + sound bar as if they were one single piece of equipment. You rock.
Glad I could be of assistance!

As a P.S., I've been using this soundbar perfectly for several years now, but just recently discovered audio dropouts when using the Amazon Video app through the Smart TV menu. My wife and I have been binge watching The Americans via Amazon Prime and this is the first time we've experienced this issue. It ONLY happens when using Amazon - I experience no drops whatsoever when using Netflix or HBO Go. I've done a fair amount of research on this too, and the only workaround I've found for the time being is to turn off my soundbar when watching Amazon Video and going back the TV audio. Frustrating for sure, but at least it's less frustrating than audio drops every minute or so!
k_lewis's Avatar k_lewis 11:35 AM 07-16-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfranks View Post
Glad I could be of assistance!

As a P.S., I've been using this soundbar perfectly for several years now, but just recently discovered audio dropouts when using the Amazon Video app through the Smart TV menu. My wife and I have been binge watching The Americans via Amazon Prime and this is the first time we've experienced this issue. It ONLY happens when using Amazon - I experience no drops whatsoever when using Netflix or HBO Go. I've done a fair amount of research on this too, and the only workaround I've found for the time being is to turn off my soundbar when watching Amazon Video and going back the TV audio. Frustrating for sure, but at least it's less frustrating than audio drops every minute or so!

Here is my help back to you sir- The issue you have is due to the Smart TV services in general. I have a $24k (USD) Theta Casablanca IV processor and have had same issue when using apps in the Smart TV's - whether it is Samsung, Sharp or Sony.

Honestly the only way to get reliable, quality streaming services is to use a dedicated device like Roku or Apple TV. I prefer Roku because they have everything and are not purposefully limiting you like Apple does. Not only that, if you use a Roku on every TV it creates a uniform easier experience for watchers of every TV in the house. sometimes the Smart TV menus can work differently per TV, even among different models of Samsung.

Since I put Roku boxes at every TV, I have not had one problem except the occasional need to reboot the Roku. And all the remotes work the same way. BTW you can control any Roku with IR even the Roku's that come with an RF remote. So it is easy to use a cheap universal remote for an all in one single remote solution.
indyfranks's Avatar indyfranks 09:49 AM 07-18-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by k_lewis View Post
Here is my help back to you sir- The issue you have is due to the Smart TV services in general. I have a $24k (USD) Theta Casablanca IV processor and have had same issue when using apps in the Smart TV's - whether it is Samsung, Sharp or Sony.

Honestly the only way to get reliable, quality streaming services is to use a dedicated device like Roku or Apple TV. I prefer Roku because they have everything and are not purposefully limiting you like Apple does. Not only that, if you use a Roku on every TV it creates a uniform easier experience for watchers of every TV in the house. sometimes the Smart TV menus can work differently per TV, even among different models of Samsung.

Since I put Roku boxes at every TV, I have not had one problem except the occasional need to reboot the Roku. And all the remotes work the same way. BTW you can control any Roku with IR even the Roku's that come with an RF remote. So it is easy to use a cheap universal remote for an all in one single remote solution.
BTW, I did find a workaround for the audio drop issue. Here's the link:
https://cnet.com/forums/discussi...flix-601070/2/

I ended up starting Amazon Video through the Smart TV and then going into the TV menu to Sound, Digital Audio Out, and changed it from Dolby 5.1 to PCM. Honestly I don't have a good understanding of the difference between the two settings, but it was enough to get rid of the audio drops, so I'm happy once again. :-)
k_lewis's Avatar k_lewis 10:27 AM 07-18-2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfranks View Post
BTW, I did find a workaround for the audio drop issue. Here's the link:
https://cnet.com/forums/discussi...flix-601070/2/

I ended up starting Amazon Video through the Smart TV and then going into the TV menu to Sound, Digital Audio Out, and changed it from Dolby 5.1 to PCM. Honestly I don't have a good understanding of the difference between the two settings, but it was enough to get rid of the audio drops, so I'm happy once again. :-)

Yes that makes sense- when in dolby digital mode the output is in digital bitsream format from the source to the receiver (sound bar), where it is decoded and converted to pcm stereo output.

Using PCM output is already downmixed at the source (TV, Roku etc) to 2ch stereo and at the sound bar there is no dolby encoding / decoding being done by the TV and sound bar.

IMO the source (TV, Roku etc) should always use PCM audio output to the sound bar- there is no benefit to using dolby format. if the sound bar receives a dolby bitstream all it is doing is decoding both dolby and HDCP, then downmixing to pcm stereo, then applying one of the DSP sound modes (Cinema etc), then routing through an electronic crossover with subwoofer channel created from both L/R stereo audio pcm channels. It's a waste to use dolby as the signal input format as there is no real benefit.

The reason you get drops in audio with dolby is more than likely because the processor / electronics / firmware handling the dolby digital audio are very basic and not robust. if either the sound bar and/or the TV were having slight performance or clocking issues keeping up with the dolby or hdcp decoding you would indeed get audio drops. when digital cannot keep up with data streams it will drop data to correct and keep up. in this case it is dropping audio data.

Anyway good job on finding the proper setting to eliminate the problem.

One more thought - It is also preferable to turn off the TV's menu sound volume (clicks, beeps etc on menu iem selection). Leaving menu sounds enabled plays hell on the audio receiver because it has to stop what it is doing (receiving PCM or dolby), process the menu sound click / beep, then keep back up with the PCM or dolby sound, and try to do it all seamlessly without glitch. No matter what the source, TV, BD player, Roku, etc I always disable menu sounds.
Ellebob 10:47 AM 07-18-2017
Dolby vs PCM 2 channel depends on your equipment. If you want surround sound or have a sound bar that tries to give surround effects you want Dolby. If you are using a stereo system or stereo/2.1 sound bar then it doesn't matter whether the source device converts it to PCM 2 channel or the sound bar/ receiver and if getting audio drop outs then definitely try 2 channel PCM.
Tags: Samsung Hw F450 2 1 Channel 280 Watt Soundbar
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