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post #1 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofer design for me + discussion. [Formerly "Enclosure design programs"]

Hello,

I'm quite new here to this forum so let me first of all tell you who I am. It'll help you understand why I'm asking this.
I'm Anna, a 15 year old girl from Belgium (Nut friggin' French aight). I have built a T-Line subwoofer before with someone else's instructions and it seems to work alright. However, as I'm more and more getting into the HiFi Scene I'm noticing how my sub-woofer's SPL output at 25Hz isn't incredibly audible anymore with Treble playing over it. Maybe that's because it's a T-line, or because it's an 8 inch driver.

I've got my eye on the Dayton Audio Reference RSS315HO-44 DVC 12-inch driver. It seems like it has a quite nice xmax rating. I like big excursion woofers. Link to Specsheet


I'm hoping someone could help me find a program that's free-ware to help me design either a very good ported box, or preferably again a T-Line enclosure. Perhaps a person on here that would be kind & willing enough to help me with that over the Internet. I dont have a budget for anything paid (I'm 15. I can't have either paypal/creditcards nor a job.)

Space isn't an issue as long as it's not FrigginHjuudge (Like trump's hands >: ).) I've got an old car amplifier to power it that I scored from the dump and got back up and running after replacing a dead Op-amp and a couple caps. I have an 83Amp @ 12.3v power supply, so that's not the problem either.


If there's anything I did here against the rules, please tell me what needs changing. If you need me to tell more, or would like so, Please do so also. Thanks in advance <3.

Sincerely,
Anna

(Files here are pics of the current subwoofer)

http://imgur.com/a/gPqOC Plans written out. Didn't draw these myself.
http://imgur.com/a/UKuQY Two CAD drawings in Solid Edge V20. I did make those myself. I'm a woodworking student at school.
/Cant find my real-life pictures atm/

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post #2 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:17 PM
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Big output on little power for cheap, AND you have woodworking skills? That's a recipe for a horn if I've ever heard one.
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post #3 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:22 PM
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I can help you simulate anything you like.

If you want to give it a shot on your own here are some good free simulators. Each has different strengths and weaknesses.

Hornresp - http://hornresp.net/
TL.app - http://leonardaudio.co.uk/
Akabak - http://randteam.de/AkAbak/Index.html

I also use MJK's worksheets which are arguably the best tool for tl design but I don't think they are available anymore and even if they were it isn't free.

Most of the popular software that people use around here can't simulate transmission lines, so WinISD, Unibox, etc won't work for you.

If you want design help you need to provide a list of goals - desired passband, size, stuff like that. Sims only take a few minutes so it's no problem to help.
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post #4 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Ehm I dont think you understand what I really mean. I'm looking for a program or programs, freeware, that help me.guide me through designing a box for this subwoofer with a slot port. Preferably a T-Line for it's fantastic characteristics. I dont need a big output, and since It's a 150 dollar subwoofer, I can afford 18mm MDF up to around 50 bucks. I have some spares laying around from my other box too. I also don't have a huge amount of work equipment. If I need wood cut, I let it be done at the store. I have a batterypowered drill which I used for drilling holes and screwing it in.

i got confused 'bout that description link btw. Don't mind all of the above :P

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post #5 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
Ehm I dont think you understand what I really mean. I'm looking for a program or programs, freeware, that help me.guide me through designing a box for this subwoofer with a slot port. Preferably a T-Line for it's fantastic characteristics. I dont need a big output, and since It's a 150 dollar subwoofer, I can afford 18mm MDF up to around 50 bucks. I have some spares laying around from my other box too. I also don't have a huge amount of work equipment. If I need wood cut, I let it be done at the store. I have a batterypowered drill which I used for drilling holes and screwing it in.
That was meant at wldkrd1 By the way.
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post #6 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I can help you simulate anything you like.

If you want to give it a shot on your own here are some good free simulators. Each has different strengths and weaknesses.

Hornresp - http://hornresp.net/
TL.app - http://leonardaudio.co.uk/
Akabak - http://randteam.de/AkAbak/Index.html

I also use MJK's worksheets which are arguably the best tool for tl design but I don't think they are available anymore and even if they were it isn't free.

Most of the popular software that people use around here can't simulate transmission lines, so WinISD, Unibox, etc won't work for you.

If you want design help you need to provide a list of goals - desired passband, size, stuff like that. Sims only take a few minutes so it's no problem to help.
I would need to have 'desired passband, size, stuff like that.' explained for me haha.

If I have it simulated, and I have never designed a cab myself before, How do I actually draw out how the slot port will go?

it doesn't HAVE to be a Tline. As long as it's a good ported box with a slot port. Although I would rather have a Tline over a simple ported. Tlines are also ported boxes haha.
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post #7 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:41 PM
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I would need to have 'desired passband, size, stuff like that.' explained for me haha.

If I have it simulated, and I have never designed a cab myself before, How do I actually draw out how the slot port will go?

it doesn't HAVE to be a Tline. As long as it's a good ported box with a slot port. Although I would rather have a Tline over a simple ported. Tlines are also ported boxes haha.
How low do you want it to go and how big do you want it to be? Lower tuning = less max spl. Larger size = more spl. Generally. I can draw a picture of your finished design so you can build it.

A simple slot ported box is really easy to design, transmission lines require the type of software I linked to. But still really easy. There are also a few different types of tl.

Mltl is a long box with a port (nothing fancy inside), the port can be either round as shown here or a slot port.



Then there's reverse taper tl. Cross sectional area goes from big to small as it goes from closed end to ported end.



Positive taper tl (pipe/horn).



Voigt pipe and variants (kind of a mix between mltl and positive taper tl)



Regular old boring constant cross sectional area tl (no taper)



And even tapped horns are transmission lines.



There are also other variations on these concepts and any of these can be folded in a variety of different ways to give you any box shape you like.

Or you can just do a simple slot ported box.

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post #8 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I appreciate your help haha.

I would like to keep my dimensions around a volume of 1x1x1m. Is that too small for a good SPL output with A T-Line? I can't do too much of angular cuts either (unless it's 45 cornerpieces, I can do those at the tablesaw at school.)

I've downloaded the Leonard Audio T-Line program, besides. It's also installed.
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post #9 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I want to add to that that the maximum output of my amplifier is around 150 watts clean. I know how to set the gain to be able to max out my preamp (within margin. Like 80% of the dial). My Preamp is a Schiit device. I dont remember it's name but it's the passive preamp.With a splitter at the out.
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post #10 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:54 PM
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1 cubic meter is actually pretty huge, it probably won't need to be that big. The cube shape is a bit odd though, it would be a lot easier if you could make it more rectangular than cube shaped.

And it's pretty essential to set a goal for how low you want it to go before you start. Or at least figure that out as you go while considering the compromises of tuning vs max spl.

If there's a particular type of tl you would like to try I can sim something up for you tonight.
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post #11 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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1 cubic meter is actually pretty huge, it probably won't need to be that big. The cube shape is a bit odd though, it would be a lot easier if you could make it more rectangular than cube shaped.

And it's pretty essential to set a goal for how low you want it to go before you start. Or at least figure that out as you go while considering the compromises of tuning vs max spl.

If there's a particular type of tl you would like to try I can sim something up for you tonight.
It doesn't have to be a cube haha that was just for the cubic meter. It can be 1.5m tall too, half a meter deep, and like 80cm wide. I would like to have to port on the front where I can see the sub. Those are just dimensions to example that By-The-Way

if you're making examples too will they be like.. tuned to the subwoofer? I'd like it to at least hit a nice 25Hz. I would watch movies but also music listening is a thing. I don't have a budget for things like an SVS PB2000 etc. My subwoofer is crossed over at 80Hz, besides.

Would you mind explaining what is actually the most viable in lame-girls'-language? I dont know much at all about those fancypants terms.

I tried in BassBoxPro6 yesterday too but I was disappointed it doesnt do slot ports.

Edit: I'm afraid of simple ported cabs because i've heard of some pretty bad things in terms of bass response and inability to have a flat curve.

Edit2: I love how my tline now works, even though it's probably nbot designed for this 8inch. It's actually just a stock Logitech subwoofer that I got a new enclosure for. I'm quite impressed with it. It should at least prform this well, the new one, just a little more stable in frequency? I notice a drop out in frequency around 40hz because it's not stuffed and I dont have cornerpieces in the sub.

yet another update: If I happen to postpone the purchase of the woofer would it be good enough to pick a next gen Dayton with specs as close to this one? :P

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post #12 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 03:16 PM
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Would you mind explaining what is actually the most viable in lame-girls'-language? I dont know much at all about those fancypants terms.
Each type has it's own set of pros and cons. You can look them up if you like but you don't have to. I also encourage you to play around in the simulator with different shapes and sizes of box, that's a great way to learn really fast.

For now, I'll try a couple of things and post some sims. It won't be for a few hours though.

If you are pretty set on the driver you mentioned in the first post then I'll use that driver. if you have other candidates let me know.

Quote:
I tried in BassBoxPro6 yesterday too but I was disappointed it doesnt do slot ports.
You can take a round port in a sim and build it as a slot port. It won't work exactly the same as the sim suggests but as long as you keep the length the same and the interior volume the same it should work reasonably close to what the sim predicts.

Quote:
Edit: I'm afraid of simple ported cabs because i've heard of some pretty bad things in terms of bass response and inability to have a flat curve.
Usually people complain that ported boxes are too boomy, the freuqnecy response is too flat (no roll off) to a frequency that is too low and it doesn't match the room's gain curve. They don't have to be like that, it's a design choice.

Quote:
Edit2: I love how my tline now works, even though it's probably nbot designed for this 8inch. It's actually just a stock Logitech subwoofer that I got a new enclosure for. I'm quite impressed with it. It should at least prform this well, the new one, just a little more stable in frequency? I notice a drop out in frequency around 40hz because it's not stuffed and I dont have cornerpieces in the sub.
It would be easy enough to simulate your current tl if the driver t/s parameters were available. But just becuase it's a bit weak at 40 hz doesn't mean it's a problem with the sub, it could be a problem with your room.

Stuffing may or may not help but corner reflectors won't do anything. All they do is waste precious space in the box. For midrange frequencies you would want corner reflectors but they are not doing anything useful for subwoofers.
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post #13 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 03:18 PM
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yet another update: If I happen to postpone the purchase of the woofer would it be good enough to pick a next gen Dayton with specs as close to this one? :P
I'm going to show you how to sim and what to look for in simulated response (if that's what you want) so if the driver becomes unavailable you can design a new tl for a new driver. Sticking a driver with similar specs in will also work but there's great benefit in being able to sim, design and build whatever you want for whatever driver you want.

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post #14 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to show you how to sim and what to look for in simulated response (if that's what you want) so if the driver becomes unavailable you can design a new tl for a new driver. Sticking a driver with similar specs in will also work but there's great benefit in being able to sim, design and build whatever you want for whatever driver you want.
How do I design a box from what you call a sim? or does it do that for you? Also, does the sim have an option for a slotport?
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post #15 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Just a quick add-on. Does it matter much that I'd rather have a wide and deep subwoofer (with the port and woofer closer to each other) than a really tall (like a skyscraper) cab?

This video from a fantastic fella called Barevids made me understand ported boxes better.

besides that, but important, I have autism. My learning capabilities are quite limited if you try to teach me the way you were taught :P

he says this about the port: From small to large is loud, from large to small is SQ. I want it inbetween the two so the straight one is fine right?

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post #16 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 04:00 PM
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Hornresp as already mentioned really is the program for you. here's a thread that shows you how to use it. http://hometheatershack.com/foru...-everyone.html
You should probably go for a front-loaded horn with off-set driver (OD). You'll see what that means in the thread.
Its easier to build if you make it long in one dimension however, like this:

But if you're fixing amps and building horns at 15 you'll figure out how to fold a hold into a 11-dimensional cube if you give it a few hours.

PS: I bet the saw at school can do all the degrees, haven't seen one yet that does not. Maybe the teacher don't know how to set it for other than min/max degrees, which may happen to be 90 and 45 degrees.

cms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical compliance: 0.000065 meter/Newton or in standard form 6.5e-05 m/N. (smaller number is better)
rms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical resistance: 6.41 Newton.sec/meter. (higher number is better)
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post #17 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Hornresp as already mentioned really is the program for you. here's a thread that shows you how to use it. http://hometheatershack.com/foru...-everyone.html
You should probably go for a front-loaded horn with off-set driver (OD). You'll see what that means in the thread.
Its easier to build if you make it long in one dimension however, like this:

But if you're fixing amps and building horns at 15 you'll figure out how to fold a hold into a 11-dimensional cube if you give it a few hours.

PS: I bet the saw at school can do all the degrees, haven't seen one yet that does not. Maybe the teacher don't know how to set it for other than min/max degrees, which may happen to be 90 and 45 degrees.
I dont understand what you mean by building horn speakers? Also, I dont think that the picture you showed there is something really for me? :L I dont think I need a horn. If I'm wrong, correct me with why I would need one then?

EDIT: I can't run AkAbak By-the-way. I'm on 64bit Win10 which doesn't have a 32bit emulator that runs 16bit programs.

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post #18 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 05:06 PM
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Just a quick add-on. Does it matter much that I'd rather have a wide and deep subwoofer (with the port and woofer closer to each other) than a really tall (like a skyscraper) cab?
You can fold the box up any way you like. It's probably going to have one short dimension - one side will probably be between 12 - 24 inches wide (30 - 60 cm) but the other two sides can be whatever you want.

Quote:
This video from a fantastic fella called Barevids made me understand ported boxes better.
That's a good try but he doesn't really understand the topic very well. I'm going to get you some better information.

Quote:
besides that, but important, I have autism. My learning capabilities are quite limited if you try to teach me the way you were taught :P
I don't think this will be a problem, if you don't understand what I'm saying let me know and I'll try again.

Quote:
he says this about the port: From small to large is loud, from large to small is SQ. I want it inbetween the two so the straight one is fine right?
Well, there's a lot more to it than that but I'll show you.

For now, take a look at this paper, this is the definitive paper for transmission line design for beginners. http://quarter-wave.com/TLs/Alignment_Tables.pdf

This paper is an introduction that shows you how size, shape, stuffing, driver t/s parameters and other things affect the design. You can skip the entire first half (unless you love math) and just start reading where the text and graphs start. This is a fantastic paper and a great starting point for tl design. But if reading papers is not an efficient way for you to learn, don't worry, I'm going to make this easy to understand.

Later on I'll some you some sims of different enclosure types, a bunch of different transmission lines, a ported box and maybe even some horns so you can see how they compare.

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post #19 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 05:07 PM
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How do I design a box from what you call a sim? or does it do that for you? Also, does the sim have an option for a slotport?
This will all become clear later on when I show you some sims. Yes there is an option for a port, and you can build the port either as a slot port or a round port.
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post #20 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 05:56 PM
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To start out I am going to strongly recommend learning to use Hornresp. It isn't the best tool for everything but it is very good at most things. It can sim all of the enclosure types you may be interested in, so to start out I'll introduce Hornresp and show a few of the enclosure types.

The Hornresp input screen is pretty simple once you get used to it. This pic should help. Don't worry now about the boxes I haven't circled. You can see the info I've put in the boxes so you can copy it and use it to get started playing with this simulator.

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post #21 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 06:09 PM
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Moving right along, this is a sealed box sim using the inputs from above. You didn't ask about sealed but this is an opportunity to see how sealed boxes behave so you can compare against the other box types.

All sims are going to be shown at 150 watts since that's the amount of power you have.

This sealed box is 28.3 liters (1 cubic foot), which gives a qtc of .52, which is near critically damped. Qtc describes the low knee and roll off behavior of a sealed box as well as stored energy.

I encourage you to recreate these sims on your own and play with the size (and shape, where applicable) of the box. It's great experience. See how changes affect the different graphs. Also check on the impedance graph. The sealed box will have a single impedance peak.

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post #22 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 06:33 PM
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Next up is a simple ported box, I filled in Ap and Lpt with the port dimension information. The sim doesn't care if the port is round or a slot port, you can build it however you like (although the sim will be accurate if the port end is not very near a wall inside the box).

This time I used the loudspeaker wizard instead of hitting "calculate". This allows access to the sliders which make changes very quick and easy.

This ported box is a bit larger than the sealed box and the low knee is around 25 hz as you requested. Making the box larger will make more spl at the tuning frequency but you don't want it to be too strong at tuning or it might sound boomy in your room. The response is very nice and flat(ish) from 25 hz up to well past 80 hz.

As shown, the design has a 3 inch round port (or equivalent slot port). The 3 inch port is a bit small and results in port air velocity of 40 meters per second which is a bit high and could cause chuffing and spl losses around the tuning frequency. It's easy to make the port larger, but then it also has to be longer to achieve the same tuning frequency.

Below tuning the driver excursion skyrockets because the enclosure is no longer providing any acoustic resistance and no load. This is bad unless controlled. This is usually done with a high pass filter on the amp. Most car audio amps have a built in high pass filter, some even have an additional adjustable high pass filter so you should be ok but it's best to research your amp and find out the details of the high pass filter to make sure your driver is going to be adequately protected below tuning.

As you can see the ported box gives a lot more output at lower frequencies compared to the sealed box. This probably isn't news to you.

This design is only using up 5 mm of the driver's excursion (assuming you have a high pass filter to protect the driver below tuning) so you could tune a lot lower or apply a lot more power if you wanted to.

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post #23 of 211 Old 08-26-2016, 06:38 PM
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This gives you a start with the basics, introduces you to Hornresp, shows you what to look for in the graphs and gives a quick comparison to sealed vs ported. You can use these sims as a starting point to do some sealed and ported sims on your own if you want to experiment with the basics.

I could continue and show examples of a few different tl styles and some horns if you like. But for now I'm going to wait for some feedback from you. If you have questions let me know. If this is not a good way for you to learn, let me know. if you want me to continue showing you sims of other enclosure types let me know.
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Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
I dont understand what you mean by building horn speakers? Also, I don't think that the picture you showed there is something really for me? :L I don't think I need a horn. If I'm wrong, correct me with why I would need one then?
Horns basically give you more sound per watt. So with 150 watts or so you can get 600 watts or so of bass.

We don't "need" any of this extra bass. But that's not a reason to not build it.

Btw, speaker guy is doing a swell job explaining things.

cms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical compliance: 0.000065 meter/Newton or in standard form 6.5e-05 m/N. (smaller number is better)
rms, aka driver diaphragm suspension mechanical resistance: 6.41 Newton.sec/meter. (higher number is better)
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post #25 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 01:45 AM
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This should be a sticky for using Hornrsp
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post #26 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 03:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ronny31 View Post
Horns basically give you more sound per watt. So with 150 watts or so you can get 600 watts or so of bass.

We don't "need" any of this extra bass. But that's not a reason to not build it.

Btw, speaker guy is doing a swell job explaining things.
Wont a horn also deform the sound as in, less like the original author intended? I don't really think 600watt-sounding-sound will be much appreciated here anyhow, and I dont want bass that sounds louder or different from the original. Or is that never really possible? :P
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post #27 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 03:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
This gives you a start with the basics, introduces you to Hornresp, shows you what to look for in the graphs and gives a quick comparison to sealed vs ported. You can use these sims as a starting point to do some sealed and ported sims on your own if you want to experiment with the basics.

I could continue and show examples of a few different tl styles and some horns if you like. But for now I'm going to wait for some feedback from you. If you have questions let me know. If this is not a good way for you to learn, let me know. if you want me to continue showing you sims of other enclosure types let me know.
It's a bit on the more technical/difficult size but I'm sure if I do some research about all the vocabulary you used, I'll u nderstand better. Thanks! Even though I understand nothing of what all the things mùean in the Hornresp GUI anywhere, and even though I dont even know if I'd need stuffing or what stuffing does or how many you need... I'll do my best
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post #28 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
Wont a horn also deform the sound as in, less like the original author intended? I don't really think 600watt-sounding-sound will be much appreciated here anyhow, and I dont want bass that sounds louder or different from the original. Or is that never really possible? :P
A full size front loaded horn is arguably the best design possible. It gives a very flat frequency response (so it will sound very normal) and it is very sensitive (so it make s a lot of sound with very little power).

Here's a full size front loaded horn with your driver using only 150 watts. It's rock concert loud and has fantastic flat frequency response. It will blend very well with your speakers because you adjust the gains so they are all playing at the same level, but when you turn it up this will go way louder than any tl or ported box ever will. And it will go quite a bit louder than rock concert loud if you give it more power than 150 watts because 150 watts isn't even close to stressing the driver in terms of excursion.

The problem is that this is fairly hard to build and it's very large - this is 8.3 cubic meters.



Horns can be less than full size as shown here and they will lose some of these beautiful characteristics when you make them a lot smaller, but small horns are still a good option. The have to be larger than a ported box or tl to give the benefits a horn can provide but they can be much smaller than 8.3 cubic meters, a nice horn for your driver will probably be about 200 - 500 liters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
It's a bit on the more technical/difficult size but I'm sure if I do some research about all the vocabulary you used, I'll u nderstand better. Thanks! Even though I understand nothing of what all the things mùean in the Hornresp GUI anywhere, and even though I dont even know if I'd need stuffing or what stuffing does or how many you need... I'll do my best
If you have questions about what I posted you can research or you can ask me questions. As I see it we have a few options with how to proceed.

1a. If you want to continue to learn how to use a simulator we can go as slow and as detailed as you want. I can go into much more detail if you want but you have to tell me what you want to know about.
1b. If you want to continue to learn how to use a simulator but you don't like Hornresp we can start again using the Leonard Audio simulator. The design principles are going to be the same though, only the GUI changes.

2. If you don't really want to learn this stuff I can just give you some sims and recommendations and you can just chose one. I can draw you a picture and you can build it.

Subwoofer design can be an extraordinary large topic and we are barely scratching the surface here. If this is something you want to learn, you can learn it. If you are picking amps out of the garbage and swapping op amps and making them work again, you can do this. But if you don't want to learn this stuff, if you just want to pick and design and build it, I can help you with that too. However you want to proceed I can help, we can go as deep into this or stay as shallow as you like.

If you want to learn this stuff it's pretty essential that you understand the graphs I'm showing, so if you have questions just ask. Even if you don't want to learn this stuff, these graphs are how we evaluate performance metrics of different designs so they are pretty important.
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post #29 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
A full size front loaded horn is arguably the best design possible. It gives a very flat frequency response (so it will sound very normal) and it is very sensitive (so it make s a lot of sound with very little power).

Here's a full size front loaded horn with your driver using only 150 watts. It's rock concert loud and has fantastic flat frequency response. It will blend very well with your speakers because you adjust the gains so they are all playing at the same level, but when you turn it up this will go way louder than any tl or ported box ever will. And it will go quite a bit louder than rock concert loud if you give it more power than 150 watts because 150 watts isn't even close to stressing the driver in terms of excursion.

The problem is that this is fairly hard to build and it's very large - this is 8.3 cubic meters.



Horns can be less than full size as shown here and they will lose some of these beautiful characteristics when you make them a lot smaller, but small horns are still a good option. The have to be larger than a ported box or tl to give the benefits a horn can provide but they can be much smaller than 8.3 cubic meters, a nice horn for your driver will probably be about 200 - 500 liters.



If you have questions about what I posted you can research or you can ask me questions. As I see it we have a few options with how to proceed.

1a. If you want to continue to learn how to use a simulator we can go as slow and as detailed as you want. I can go into much more detail if you want but you have to tell me what you want to know about.
1b. If you want to continue to learn how to use a simulator but you don't like Hornresp we can start again using the Leonard Audio simulator. The design principles are going to be the same though, only the GUI changes.

2. If you don't really want to learn this stuff I can just give you some sims and recommendations and you can just chose one. I can draw you a picture and you can build it.

Subwoofer design can be an extraordinary large topic and we are barely scratching the surface here. If this is something you want to learn, you can learn it. If you are picking amps out of the garbage and swapping op amps and making them work again, you can do this. But if you don't want to learn this stuff, if you just want to pick and design and build it, I can help you with that too. However you want to proceed I can help, we can go as deep into this or stay as shallow as you like.

If you want to learn this stuff it's pretty essential that you understand the graphs I'm showing, so if you have questions just ask. Even if you don't want to learn this stuff, these graphs are how we evaluate performance metrics of different designs so they are pretty important.
The problem I have with learning is that I can't learn something as well with text, and a heap of photos and text. Besides that.. My English might be excellent but my learning capability is even less in English as I don't use it everyday, and my brain will never get used to it (because thats how my chemistry works). I was wondering if you have programs like Discord or Teamspeak, because that would make it easier, but I dont expect you to.

Would you mind telling me what I should adjust in the hornresp simulator, and what all those things actually mean?

edit: I now actually re read your thread and.. How like HOW big in dimensions would a good full size horn be? I can have it a bit taller and a bit wider, but no deeper than 80cm because that would be bad for my room. I have basement as a room and the current tline is working great in it. Would you like to see a video of the sub I currently have in action at about 50Watts (about 45% of its rated RMS)?

Edit2: I forgot to mention I went to have your hornresp explanations printed out at a local printers shop. The ones that print big photos on fabric etc. It cost me 2 dollars worth of paper +/- and I got it printed for free because the woman at the printing shop found it soo soo exciting that I'm doing this effort to learn all of this.

I learn way better, I understand thing better on paper. On a screen I can read them, but I never wrap my head around what's written. It's all kinda.. Flat.. On a flatscreen. (See what I did there?)

A horn seems like a good option but I'm afraid of trying something new. I can't make much advanced angular cuts unless I buy mdf at school and get it expensively delivered at home. The current tline is something I built outside of my comfort zone which was tiny beforehand. I'm looking into building new monitors even though my current SS-H10's from Sony sound fine to me (However, I dont know if they're good quality). I'm still debating it however since I'm a bit of an anxious ****.

i'm now gonna try the hornresp things, from paper.

Last edited by HumbleDeer; 08-27-2016 at 03:14 PM.
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post #30 of 211 Old 08-27-2016, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
I was wondering if you have programs like Discord or Teamspeak, because that would make it easier, but I dont expect you to.
Never heard of those but a quick search suggests they are kinda like Skype, no? I've never done any visual chat before. I'll look into finding a chat program that can display a computer screen instead of a picture of my face. A moving screenshot could be very helpful, you could ask questions as you watch my computer screen. If that's what you want to do. And if a program like that exists.

Quote:
Would you mind telling me what I should adjust in the hornresp simulator, and what all those things actually mean?
Sure, I can do that for each input box but first decide which program you want to use. Take a look at Hornresp and the Leonard Audio program. If one seems like it might be more intuitive and easier for you than the other then pick one and we'll work on that one.
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