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post #1 of 23 Old 07-27-2005, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to lower my center speaker from on top of screen to under screen, and I don't have enough extra cable attached. Is it OK to splice 4-5' of speaker cable onto it? If so, what kind of splice connector should I use? I think it's 14 ga. speaker cable. I also may need to do this for the left and right front speakers. Thanks.
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post #2 of 23 Old 07-27-2005, 11:44 PM
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Why not just solder them together? I would.

IB
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post #3 of 23 Old 07-27-2005, 11:51 PM
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Or you can crimp them together with the barrel type connectors.

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post #4 of 23 Old 07-27-2005, 11:52 PM
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I sure wouldn't do it. Speaker wire isn't that expensive. A 100' roll of 14/2 gage well respected speaker wire will run you under $15 at Parts Express.

John W.
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post #5 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 09:56 AM
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If you have the extra wire lying around, splice it on. If you need to go and buy some, get enough to replace the whole run... It'll look much better that way.
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post #6 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 10:19 AM
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Speaker wire is like the cheapest part of any system, and every extra break in the line is going to give you some loss in signal transfer. Seems a little penny smart and pound foolish to skimp on the wiring.
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post #7 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 11:04 AM
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I have done it for inwall stuff i needed some leangth on. In theory it is not much different then putting bannana plug on it.
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post #8 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottatl
In theory it is not much different then putting bannana plug on it.
Exactly!

Jim, let us know what you end up doing.
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post #9 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 06:21 PM
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Remember what's inside your speakers.... those caps and inductors are also 'speaker wire' in the chain before the signal actually hits your speaker drivers.

They're spliced and soldered bits of other speakers wire and themselves are thinner guage and FAR longer lengths of wire than what the length of most people's speaker wire run is from amps to speaker cabinets.

Bottom line... if you REALLY are worried about what to do about your speaker wire... replace/redo your x-overs with best of the best parts first.

If you want to splice in extra speaker wire, you should be able to A/B the effect and I highly doubt you'll hear any diff in sound quality.
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post #10 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 06:36 PM
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If all the wire is exposed I would just replace it, it will look better. On the other hand if it is in the wall then go ahead and splice it, just screw a Marrett (Banana Plug) over the connection. Easy as pie.

That's what I did for one of my surrounds when I moved my equipment rack and the wire was just a couple feet too short. Spliced it behind the wall. No fuss, no mess, and no fishing new wire.
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post #11 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 08:45 PM
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Jim,

If you do spice, make sure you do it right. Whatever you do, don’t “twist and tape.†Soldering certainly makes for a solid connection, but it takes a high-powered iron – at least 40 watts - to do it right. Smaller irons will heat up and melt the plastic insulation by the time you get the wire hot enough to solder. Not to mention, you really should insulate the connection with heat shrink, and the whole thing is pretty ugly after it’s all said and done.

For speaker wire I recommend in-line butt splices. They’re simple to use and give an attractive and perfectly functional splice. Use the correct butt splices – yellow for 12-gauge, blue for 14-gauge – and the correct crimper, one of these. You can get them at any hardware store for under $10.


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post #12 of 23 Old 07-28-2005, 10:59 PM
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I always recommend continous runs. Another connection is just another potential failure point...and I never would do it in a wall....
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post #13 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 12:05 AM
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No splice in speaker wire! adds resistance!
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post #14 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W700guy
No splice in speaker wire! adds resistance!
That's funny. :)
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat6366
That's funny. :)
"Funny....what's funny, You think I am funny! Like a clown, I am here to amuse you like a clown! I don't get it... what the hell is so funny about me Pat"

"Goodfellas"

I just love that movie.

Pat,
Any electrical engineer will tell you that splicing adds resistance. Now the debate is how much? So, It still effects your speaker wire? or you could suggest a nice Western Union splice?
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post #16 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W700guy
"Funny....what's funny, You think I am funny! Like a clown, I am here to amuse you like a clown! I don't get it... what the hell is so funny about me Pat"

"Goodfellas"

I just love that movie.

Pat,
Any electrical engineer will tell you that splicing adds resistance. Now the debate is how much? So, It still effects your speaker wire? or you could suggest a nice Western Union splice?
Gotta love Goodfellas.

B&W
I realize that a solder joint could add some miniscule amount of resistance, (even though I am a Mechanical Engineer) it is just funny to think that it could ever make a noticeable difference in sound quality.
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post #17 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 10:56 AM
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"-I realize that a solder joint could add some miniscule amount of resistance, (even though I am a Mechanical Engineer) it is just funny to think that it could ever make a noticeable difference in sound quality.-"

Exactly. Some of you other guys are just preaching voodoo to people.

Having a longer run (spliced or not) of speaker wire adds resistance too. It's insignificant though. Like I said.... what's in people's speaker x-overs has FAR more wire, splicing, and solidering then what the poster was asking about.

Remember the original poster was talking FIVE FEET of speakers wire. Don't go around fooling people into thinking they're going to have a problem when they certainly aren't.

note- I do think 'looks' and 'making sure you don't oxidize the wire' are reasonable points though.
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post #18 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne A. Pflughaupt
If you do spice, make sure you do it right. Whatever you do, don’t “twist and tape.â€
I did that just yesterday :( What's wrong with it?
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post #19 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuz
Or you can crimp them together with the barrel type connectors.

Nuz
I've done it. No problems.

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post #20 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 01:22 PM
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I'm not advocating one way or the other, the extra resistance or miniscule resistance point.... Frankly, I don't care. Because, for a few dollars, I could replace the entire run with a new one.

That way, there is no question whether I got a good solder joint or have the proper crimping tool for a good crimp joint, whether it will oxidize or not, whether it adds more resistance or not.... And, it will look a whole lot better too.

John W.
Indy
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post #21 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 03:03 PM
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I think the main reason you would want to avoid it is the risk that the connection would be weak. If you ensure that the connection is solid, with good contact for all strands, then I think the member's point above applies - you are adding no more resistance than using banana plugs.

If you plan to twist the wires together and slap some electrical wire tape to it, then you probably should rethink your approach. ;)

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post #22 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRebel
If you plan to twist the wires together and slap some electrical wire tape to it, then you probably should rethink your approach. ;)
but why?
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post #23 of 23 Old 07-29-2005, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadriverfalls
I'm not advocating one way or the other, the extra resistance or miniscule resistance point.... Frankly, I don't care. Because, for a few dollars, I could replace the entire run with a new one.

That way, there is no question whether I got a good solder joint or have the proper crimping tool for a good crimp joint, whether it will oxidize or not, whether it adds more resistance or not.... And, it will look a whole lot better too.
Correct!!!!
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